Press
justin hartung (ny citysearch)
The Scene
The interior of this tiny store-front space hasn't changed much since its days as beloved restaurant Brunetta's. East Villagers—those who live there, and those who party there—wait at the bar for a table inside the intimate, warmly lit dining room, or better yet, in the plant-filled, 60-seat back garden. The small kitchen can be slow, but the gracious, knowledgeable service helps ease frustration.
The Food
The bistro fare is as fresh and steadfast as the restaurant's name would imply. In a richly decadent rendition, foie gras is seared, so that a savory crust protects the creamy center. Potato galette anchors a pink, mouthwatering mound of tuna tartare, green peppercorns add zip to a thick, well-charred steak and tender fennel gets along swimmingly with the subtle flavor of flaky ruff fish.